3. My 5-Account System

June 6, 2024

Episode Description

Do you find yourself struggling to keep track of where your money goes each month? In this episode we’ll cover how to categorize and organize your money using my 5-account system. This system completely changed my finances and was one of the biggest contributors to helping me stick to my budget each month. You’ll learn which accounts to use, how to split up your income each month, and a step-by-step guide on how to set up your finances to run on auto-pilot.

Thanks for listening to Dopamine Dollars! If you enjoyed the episode, I’d love it if you could leave a review 💚 

What You’ll Learn

  • how to organize your money using 5 accounts
  • the types of accounts I recommend + why
  • the difference between saving + investing accounts
  • how to set up your finances to run on autopilot
  • the answers to FAQ’s about this system
  • & more!

Important Links

Donate to Lina & Lubna’s Go Fund Me HERE.

Download my free Financial Audit template HERE.

Download my free spending tracker HERE.

Check if your bank is CDIC 🇨🇦 insured or FDIC 🇺🇸 insured.

Financial Institutions Mentioned

*please note that some of the links above are affiliate links

Transcript

This has completely changed my finances and was one of the biggest contributors to helping me stick to my budget each month.

Hi friends, and welcome back to Dopamine Dollars, the podcast where we dive into the emotions, science and real life impact of managing your money and your life when you’re neurodivergent. I’m your queer AuDHD host, Ellyce Fulmore, and today we are talking about how I organize my finances using the five account system.

Before we dive in, I want to say thank you again to everyone who has donated to the GoFundMe to help Lina and Lubna’s family evacuate Gaza. We are now at €6726, which is incredible, and 140 donations, but we still need to get to €50,000, so there’s still a long ways to go. And if you do have the means to donate, it would be incredible if you could take a moment to do that.

Put a finger down. If you use one bank account for all of your money, and it’s likely at a bank where your parents banked at and you opened it when you were like 13, you maybe have a checking account and a savings account with that bank, and that checking account is where all of your money comes in and out of. It’s the account that your paycheck comes into. It’s the same account you pay your bills with, you get groceries with, you order your clothes online with, and as a result, you’re always doing mental math to figure out if you have enough money in your account to spend on XYZ or if this bill has come out yet and you’re always a little unsure and stressed out about it. If your finger is down right now, this episode is for you.

I’m going to walk you through how to categorize and organize your money using my five account system. This has completely changed my finances and was one of the biggest contributors to helping me stick to my budget each month. I am seriously obsessed with this. Like, I cannot stop talking about it. And I really encourage you to listen to this episode, even if you initially are feeling like, hmm, five accounts, that sounds like a lot, I don’t know if that’s going to work for me. Just power through and listen to the episode and then make the decision. Because I am often met with this skepticism from some people, and then once I explain how it works and how it’s been able to help me, then a lot of people change their mind. And once they start using it, they’re like, oh my gosh, how did I go so long without this?

This method of account categorization works well for a lot of neurodivergent folks that struggle with executive function because it takes out a lot of the decision making. There is enough structure to keep you on track with your finances, remove some of the mental math you’re trying to do, and reduce decision fatigue when it comes to your money. But then there’s also lots of room for freedom and customization if you’re someone who doesn’t like a lot of rigidity and structure. And remember in one of the past episodes I talked about how oftentimes if you’re AuDHD, if you have ADHD and autism, the parts of your brain are always at odds with each other. There’s that one part that wants that structure and there’s that other part that wants spontaneity. So this system is great for that because it gives you a little bit of both.

First, I’m going to walk you through the five different accounts I recommend, and then we will talk about how you can automate this system so your budget can run on autopilot. Automating this system will reduce your mental load, help you avoid late or miss payments, and reduce impulsive spending because you will no longer have access to certain money and that will make sense as I continue through this episode. You’re probably going to want to get out your notes app or pen and paper or something for this one and take notes because I’m going to be dropping some really good tips for organizing your money. Let’s get into it.

Here are the five accounts I recommend. You have one hub account, two bill payment account, three spending account, four short term savings account, and five, long term investment account.

So number one, your hub account. A hub account is where all your money is going to move in and out from. This is where your paycheck gets deposited into and where you would transfer the money out to. The other accounts that we’re about to talk about money will not sit in this account. Instead, the hub account acts as a temporary holding cell for your money before you transfer it out to the appropriate accounts. Think of this account as your left to spend indicator. If you’ve ever used like a budget spreadsheet, you might have had this feature like on the spreadsheet where it tells you how much you have left to spend for the month. That is kind of what the hub account function is. It lets you know how much you have left to spend after you’ve allocated the money appropriately.

Now, a hub account can be optional, depending on how you organize the rest of your accounts, slash how you get paid and I’m going to come back to the hub account later and explain that statement I just said and kind of circle back to the idea of the hub account in general after I go through the other accounts, because it’ll make a little bit more sense then.

Now, in terms of the type of account that this could be, it could be a checking account or a regular savings account. Both can operate well for a hub account because you don’t need to have a debit card linked to this account at all. So it can just be a regular savings account, doesn’t have to be high interest and doesn’t have to have any sort of card attached to it to function.

Next we have account number two, your bill payment account. This account is for your monthly fixed expenses and bills and only your fixed expenses and bills, meaning those are the only things that come out of that account. In order for this account to work smoothly, you want to have a clear idea of your total monthly expenses amount. So how much per month do your monthly expenses cost you? If you’re not sure what that number is, I suggest filling out my free financial audit first. I’ll include the link to download that free template in the show notes, but this will help you get an exact number in terms of your monthly expenses, which will really help when you’re creating this account.

Now, in terms of the type of account to use, this could be a checking account, a regular savings account, or also it could be a credit card if a credit card is accessible to you, if you feel comfortable using one, you’re not currently in a lot of credit card debt. This can be a great option for the those who struggle to remember bill payments or have inconsistent income. This way your bills are paid without worry, right? Cause they can come out any time of the month and it will go on your credit card and then you can just pay off your credit card as you get paid throughout the month instead of worrying about like do I have money in my account on this day for this bill that’s coming out? And then you would transfer money from your hub to pay off your bill payment credit card.

I personally do this for both my personal finances and my business finances, and I recommend setting up your bills so that they are automatically paid each month out of the bill payment account or off of your credit card. If you’re using a bill payment credit card, basically this means that things like your phone bill or Netflix subscription would automatically be withdrawn from that account so you don’t have to go manually log into your account and pay for it. I assume that there’s probably a lot of you listening that might already have some of this set up. If you don’t currently have these automations set up and you feel comfortable doing so, I definitely would recommend it because it’s just one less thing for you to worry about per month. But I also understand for some people, especially if they’re living paycheck to paycheck, this might not be a feasible option. And so you can also use the money in this account to pay your bills manually if that’s more comfortable for you.

Our third account is the spending account. This account is for your fun spending allowance money or for variable expenses. Some people like having more than one spending card so that they can have additional separation here. So this is where your five account system might become a six or seven account system if you want additional cards for this.

For example, some people might have a separate spending card for their variable expenses that are essential expenses such as groceries and gas, and another spending card for their allowance, which is just their fun money. This again will vary based on your personal situation. Some people include groceries and gas as part of their monthly bills and fixed expenses. So this would come out of the previous account I just talked about. But other people might have really variable spending with these expenses and therefore prefer to have them separate from their more predictable bills. So it just really depends on what makes the most sense for your brain and your personal situation in terms of the type of account you’d want to use.

For a spending account, this could be a checking account, a prepaid card like KOHO. If you’ve heard me talk about KOHO before, I’m obsessed with them. Unfortunately, they’re only in Canada. I’m sorry to my American friends, but they’re excellent.

And you could also use a credit card for this as well. Now, obviously with your spending account, this needs to be attached to some sort of card. So this cannot be like a regular savings account, right? You need some sort of debit or credit card attached to this. I only recommend using a credit card as your spending card if you feel really confident and in control of your spending, because it is super easy to overspend when you’re using a credit card. And so if you’re really trying to stick to certain amounts per month and you’re allocating certain amounts, but you’re not yet confidently sticking within those ranges when using a credit card, then I wouldn’t recommend using it.

I know there’s some discourse online where people are like, you should never use a debit card because like credit cards are more secure and they give you more points and things like that. And yes, credit cards can give you a lot of amazing points. The thing is, if you’re perpetually overspending on a credit card, then it’s not worth it. The benefits you get from either earning cash back or points or whatever will not outweigh how much you’re overspending on that credit card, right? So then it’s not worth it. So you really just got to do what is best for you.

I personally have a few spending cards. I use KOHO for my allowance, and KOHO is incredible. Like, I swear this is not sponsored. I just love them. I do have an affiliate link for them that I’ll put in the show notes. Basically, it’s a like standalone card and app, and you just load the money on. You can have that money automatically transferred on each month and that is your spending money. And the amazing thing that I love about KOHO is that when you get a notification saying, you know, you just spent $5 at this store, it doesn’t just say that, it also goes on to tell you how much you have left in your spendable. So it’ll say you just spent $5 and you have $75 left in your spendable account. That visual reminder is so important as someone who is ADHD and can often have a hard time, like conceptualizing money or how much I’m spending, having that visual reminder pop up every time I use that card is just so helpful. So that’s another reason why I love KOHO.

But anyways, I digress, I’ll get back to what I was saying. So I use KOHO for my allowance, and then my partner and I have a joint KOHO account that we use for groceries and gas. The reason why we wanted a joint account for those expenses specifically was so that we could both easily access the money for these expenses whenever we needed. And how this works is we both will just transfer in the amount that we’ve previously decided on that each person is contributing every time we get paid. I get paid once a month. So when I get paid, I will automatically, you know, go and put that money into that account. And then my partner gets paid bi weekly, and so she’ll do the same thing whenever she gets paid. And it’s been working great for us.

At a minimum, I really recommend having a spending account for your fun money allowance. I talked about this at the end of episode one, but having a specific part of your budget set aside for guilt free spending is really, really helpful for controlling impulsive spending. Having that fun money that you know, that you can spend guilt free on whatever you want is just a way to introduce more freedom and autonomy into your budget, especially if you are living in a really tight financial situation.

And this budget does not have to be a lot of money, right? Like, it will depend on what you’re able to allocate, but even having $25 a month loaded onto this card that, you know, I can go spend this however I want and I’m not going to feel bad about it. That is really, really important for giving you some of that freedom, but also to help shift mindset and reduce some of the restriction that you’re placing on yourself, which overall will help with that impulsive spending. Because a lot of times impulsive spending is like spurred on by restriction, right? When we restrict ourselves a lot, we are more likely to have some sort of impulsive break down the line. And then again, as I mentioned earlier, having this separate from your other daily banking makes it a lot harder to spend money accidentally that you have already allocated for something else.

Now, your fourth account is a short term savings account. This account should be used for any short to mid term savings that you have coming up. This would include anything you’re saving up for within the next five to seven years. Now, that might sound like a really long time, but the reason we do that is because of the way the stock market works. If I were to invest money that I was planning on using for a purchase that’s coming up in five years, there’s still a lot of volatility that could happen within five years in the stock market. And essentially, you don’t want to be stuck in a situation where you need to withdraw the money, but the market is down, meaning that you’re going to lose a lot of money when you sell your investments and withdraw it. So that’s why we kind of say anything within that five to seven years, you want to keep it easily accessible and not invested.

The main things you’d use your short term savings for would be your safety fund, sinking funds, and other short term goals for the type of account that you want to use. When it comes to short term savings, there are tons of options here, but the most common would be a high yield savings account or high interest savings account. These are often noted as HYSA or HISA, and these are the same thing. It’s just in Canada they’re typically called HISA, and in the US, they’re typically called HYSA.

Although I will say that a lot of companies now are using different names for their high interest savings account. Like they’re calling them personal accounts, money accounts, because they’re now offering cards that come along with these savings accounts. So it kind of could operate as a checking account. Yeah, it’s kind of confusing. So that’s just something to keep an eye out for.

But basically it’s considered a high interest savings account if the interest rate is, you know, anything, I would say, like above 1%. It depends, again, if you’re in Canada or the US, what it’s currently sitting at. But right now in Canada, the most, like, competitive high interest savings accounts are sitting somewhere around 4% interest. So that’s kind of like a gauge right now of what you’d want to look for when looking for that high interest account. Basically, what they are are just savings accounts on steroids.

You could also use a joint savings account or HSA for your short term savings and potentially even a GIC or CD for some midterm goals. Keep in mind that you want this money to be easily accessible and liquid, which means that it’s not locked up in investments.

This is another category where many people like to have more than one short term savings account. I personally like to have a separate account for each of my savings goals because otherwise I’d end up in the same situation as the put a finger down example I gave at the beginning, where all of my savings would be in one account and I’d be doing mental math to be like, okay, how much do I need to pull out for my emergency fund? How much is going to be for this car maintenance? Like, it would just be a lot to keep track of.

If you’re a Canadian, I love EQ bank, Neo financial and Wealthsimple for their savings accounts. And these are all free to open. There’s no account minimums, there’s no monthly fees, and you can literally go open them within five minutes. I do have some affiliate links for some of those, and any affiliate links I talk about throughout this whole episode will be in the show notes. You can open multiple accounts at each of these institutions, which is really great for separating out your savings goals.

If you’re American. I really love Ally Bank, who allows you to have multiple buckets for different savings goals. So again, you can have all of your separate savings buckets which separate of the money for your different goals. Okay, now we have number five, our last account, long term investments, this account or accounts, because just like the short term savings, you’ll likely end up with multiple accounts here, is used for your long term savings. These accounts can look very different depending on your needs, but they are mainly for your retirement or for goals that are seven plus years away.

In terms of the type of account to use for your long term investments, there are tons of different options and they really vary based on the country that you live in. If you’re Canadian, some examples would be the TFSA, the RRSP, any sort of pension plans that you might have, and also unregistered investment accounts as well. If you are American, some examples would be Roth IRA, IRA, 401ks, and again, any unregistered investment accounts as well.

This is a hard one to kind of discuss a lot because there is so much variability, but like I said, you might very likely end up with multiple. A lot of folks will end up with both a TFSA and an RRSP, saving both for their retirement. We have the new account in Canada, the FHSA, the first time homebuyer savings account. So if you’re looking to buy a home, you might have that open as well as part of your long term investments. Actually, now that I just mentioned it, the FHSA would actually fall under both long term investments and short term savings as an option. But I don’t want to get into the nitty gritty of the FHSA in this episode, so we’ll just stop there. But just so you know, this could be an account that falls under both the short term savings and the long term investments.

So those are the five accounts. But remember how I said that the hub account is optional, depending on how you’re paid? I want to circle back to that idea. Now, your hub account is where your paycheck would get deposited into, and then you would set up automatic or manual transfers from your hub account to your bill payment account, your spend account, your short term savings and long term investment accounts. But your job might also offer an option to submit multiple direct deposit information. And in that case, you could have your paycheck be automatically split up and transferred into those various accounts and therefore bypass the need for the hub account completely.

Okay, so what’s next? I know this probably sounds a little or a lot overwhelming, so where do you even start with setting up the system?

Step one, you want to decide how you’d like to organize your accounts. I gave you my kind of baseline five account system. Now you want to think about how do I want to adapt this to work for my life and what type of accounts would I want to use? So do you need a hub account or can you transfer directly from your paycheck?

That’s the first decision, then you’re going to think about all the other accounts I listed. So what account or card do you want your fixed expenses to come out of? What will you use for daily spending? Where will you house your short term savings? Where will you house your long term investments?

Think about these questions and one tip I will say here is for your bills and fixed expense account, if you already have a lot of your bills and fixed expenses automated coming out of a certain account or certain card, then you may want to consider using that as your bill and fixed expense card and then just kind of removing or stop using it for other expenses and use new, different accounts for those things. That will save you a lot of time in terms of logging on to each of those accounts for all of your bills or subscriptions and making sure the account is changed to your new account. So that might be something to keep in mind.

Step two, once you’ve decided what accounts you want, you’ll need to open up any accounts that you don’t currently have. Keep in mind that you don’t have to use them all immediately. You can really take your time opening them up. You know, do one a week or one every two weeks or like whatever your capacity is, open up those accounts and you don’t have to do anything with them yet. They can just sit there as you start to get all your kind of ducks in a row.

Now, one thing I will mention here is that most banks and financial institutions only do soft credit checks when you open a new account, which means that the check that they do on your credit score does not impact your credit score. However, there are some accounts or some banks that might do what’s referred to as a hard credit check. And basically this means that when you open the account and they do a hard pull of your credit, you will have an impact to your credit score. Now, this isn’t necessarily a big deal. It won’t be a huge impact and you’ll bounce back from it really quick. But just something to keep in mind that if you’re say, opening a ton of different accounts, like you’re opening five new accounts, just to quickly check to make sure in the fine print if they’re doing a hard pull or soft pull, so that you’re not opening five accounts in one day that are all doing a hard pull on your credit because that would be a little bit more impactful.

Another thing to keep in mind is for your high interest, high yield savings accounts. You want to make sure that they are either CDIC if you’re Canadian or FDIC if you’re American insured, this means that your money will be protected if something happens to the financial institution. If you’re with a credit union, you’re looking for NCUA insured.

Don’t overthink which account to open. Like, there’s lots of great options out there. I don’t want you to get hung up on like EQ or Wealthsimple. Like pick which one immediately kind of stands out to you more. Make sure it’s insured. Both of those are, but if it’s a different one, make sure it’s insured and then open up that account. I will link in the show notes a website for checking if your institution is CDIC or FDIC insured. They’re super easy. It’s like literally just the CDIC website and you just type in the name of your institution and it will immediately tell you.

At this point, we’ve decided how we want to organize. We’ve opened up those accounts that we need. And now step number three is figure out how much money you need to be in each account, every paycheck, or every month, or whatever kind of cycle you want to use. If you’re not sure what these amounts are, use my financial audit and my spending tracker to help you determine these numbers.

Step number four, every time money hits your hub account, transfer money into all of your other accounts using the numbers that you determined in step number three. Now you can either manually do this or set up automations. If you’re living in a tight paycheck to paycheck situation, you may want to avoid automation because it can result in NSF fees if the money is withdrawn when you don’t have enough money in that account. But if you do feel comfortable if you have a little of a cushion to do automation, I definitely do recommend it.

If you are setting up automations, I’d recommend mapping out all the automations that need to be made beforehand. For example, I need a automation from hub to spending account, from hub to bill account, etcetera. Like I personally would actually draw this out on a piece of paper. Then set aside a day or a weekend to bang out setting up all of these automations. The reason you want to tackle this part all at once is because you want to make sure the money is in the right spot and everything is running smoothly together.

You can set up these automations via your online banking. The language will vary slightly depending on the institution, but you want to look for terms such as link external accounts, set up transfers, set up payments, automated or recurring transfers, and it depends what you’re transferring to and from. So let’s say, for example, you have a checking account at Tangerine, and then you have a bill payment credit card with neo financial. In order to set that up as an automation, Neil would actually have to be set up as like a payee on your Tangerine account. It’s under the pay bill section. And then from there, once they’re set up as like a bill payment account, then you can set up an automated transfer so that like every month on this day, you pay neo financial and that goes and pays off your credit card. So you just kind of have to think about what you’re transferring to and from.

Whew. Okay, I know we covered a lot, but I want you to walk away from this episode feeling so clear on this method and exactly how you can implement it yourself. So before I conclude the episode, I’m going to answer some frequently asked questions about the five account system, and hopefully this will clear up any further confusion and you’ll be feeling super confident to just go and execute the system.

The first question is, doesn’t this end up costing a lot of money in monthly bank fees?

And the answer is no. I actually pay $0 in bank fees for this entire system. My personal opinion is that I don’t think you should ever pay bank fees anymore, unless it’s for like a business account, which there isn’t very many free options for, because there are so many great online banks, fintech companies that now offer accounts with no minimums and no monthly fees and are like secure, have been around for a long time, are safe and you know all the things you want. And so I just don’t see the point in like why am I paying $15 a month for an account at this institution when there’s a million others that offer probably even better features for $0 a month? All of the accounts and cards I’ve mentioned so far in this episode are all zero fees. So definitely go check those links in the show notes if you want someplace to start when it comes to to zero fee accounts.

Question number two is, what if I have leftover money? And this is referring to basically what happens if you have all these like automations set up, but then there’s still money left over in your hub at the end of the month.

And the answer is, this is the beauty of the hub account. Like I said at the beginning, you should treat it like your left to spend monitor. Now, if you get paid a consistent amount each month, you ideally wouldn’t have any money left over in the hub account because you’d want to have allocated all the money you’re getting paid to your different categories. And I know it can feel scary to think of the idea of like specifically having an account go to zero on purpose, but that’s the point of this account. Like, you want it to get to zero because that means the money has all been properly allocated and because we’re not paying fees and we’re not having to hold a minimum in this account, there will be no repercussions of having that account go down to zero.

If you have an inconsistent income, then this is more likely that you might end up with some money left over in your hub after all the transfers have been made. And in this case, you’d want to have a plan ahead of time of where that money will go. I would suggest putting it toward your current biggest financial goal. Whether that’s paying off debt, saving up for something, or maxing out your investment accounts.

Deciding ahead of time reduces the potential of you just impulse spending that money. Because the thing is, like, we’re all human. If there’s an extra $200 sitting in your account, like you’re going to spend it, why wouldn’t you, right? But if you have a plan ahead of time that says okay, after I do all my transfers from the hub, if there’s still money left over, that money is going to go to my vacation fund or whatever it is.

I will also say that using this money as an extra allowance isn’t a bad thing either. Like your plan for this extra money might literally just be spend that money on whatever I want and that’s totally fine. The main idea is just that you have that plan beforehand so that you’re actually in control of the decision and you’re not impulsively making that decision.

Question number three, how do I figure out when to set up the automation so they line up with my paychecks?

Now this is a bit of a complicated answer that varies depending on your payment schedule, but the simple answer is that you would set up automations from your hub account to your other accounts a few days after your paycheck is delivered. This will ensure that you have a little wiggle room and don’t end up with automated transfers pulling from an empty hub account. You also don’t have to align these transfers and automations with your paychecks. For example, you might get paid bi weekly, but then choose to set up your automations to occur once a month or every Friday. You get to make the rules here so you can decide what that looks like and what’s going to make sense for your brain.

One tip here. When you’re trying to figure this out, I think it’s really helpful to have a physical calendar in front of you. Either like write it out or draw it out, or print out a just monthly calendar view and write out when your bills come out, when your paychecks come in, and like when you would want automations to happen so you can visually see how everything would work and keep all those dates straight.

Ultimately, this system will not work for everyone, but it’s personally, it changed my life and so many other lives of folks in this community. That might sound dramatic, but I’m being dead serious. Having this system and feeling so in control of my money and having my money just automatically go to where I need it to go, I can’t even describe how much it has lessened my mental load so much, it has got rid of a lot of my financial anxiety, made me feel so much more confident in control. Like it has just done wonders for my mental health, my financial health, all of the above. It’s, It’s amazing.

You might still be thinking, Ellyce, that sounds like so many accounts, I don’t know how I would keep track of them all. The thing is, once you have this system set up, and especially if you automate this whole system, you actually only really have to pay attention to your spending accounts because your paychecks getting deposited in money is automatically going from your hub to your other accounts.

Obviously you want to be checking these accounts every once in a while to make sure they’re operating good and the automations are good. But other than that, like, I don’t need to be checking my savings account or my investment accounts every day, right? Like they’re operating on autopilot, they’re good. I don’t need to be checking my bill payment account every day, just every so often, making sure that bills are coming out, nothing’s bouncing, money’s getting in there, everything’s good. That’s all good. The only thing that I’m using on a more day to day basis is my spending cards. Literally, those are the only ones that I pay attention to now. So it may be five accounts, but it’s like one account that I’m consciously thinking about.

If you’re still feeling overwhelmed with the thought of five accounts, I’d recommend just starting out with a separate allowance card and a separate savings account. The reason for this is an allowance card can really help reduce any sort of overspending which will help out with every other area of your finances. And like I talked about earlier, having this separate from your other daily banking means that it’ll be more difficult and there’ll be more barriers to dipping into money that you don’t want to.

And having a separate savings account is important because you get in the habit, if you’re not already, of like consistently putting money away in a separate account for savings. But then also it’ll be out of sight and out of mind with, which is really great for a lot of neurodivergent folks because it’ll actually play to our strengths. A lot of neurodivergent people will forget about things if it’s like out of sight, out of mind. But this can work to our benefit when it comes to savings account because we might just forget about it and then save way more money than we realized, which is amazing. You get a nice little surprise after you check that account six months later.

Remember that what I introduced to you is just the base formula. You can tweak it however you’d like to make it more feasible. It could also be the three account system or the eight account system, depending on what makes sense for you. The most important thing here is that you’re figuring out the system that works for you and your brain.

If you enjoyed this episode, I’d really appreciate you leaving a review or sharing your favorite part of this episode on social media and tagging me.

Alright friends, that is it for this episode. Thank you so much for listening to dopamine dollars. And remember, you’re not bad with money, you just don’t have a system that works for you.

Ready to make some changes?